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In Which I Visit a Witch Doctor

Today the peace corps volunteers of the Morogoro region took an educational field trip up the mountain to consult a witch doctor, since according to an old Rough Guide to Tanzania there is a lady witch doctor who does divinations.  Getting there involved hiking straight up the Uluguru mountains on a muddy, slick path that we could only walk up barefoot and even then tended to fall down a lot.  


our destination: a village just under this peak

the view of town from this elevation


agroforestry: a circle of trees with crops in the center.  Cuts down on erosion

a more passable part of the path

the aftermath of the trail

When we finally reached the village (named a village, but seemingly a small collection of houses in the middle of nowhere and a pain to get there, so why they are there, I don't know) it turned out that the lady witch doctor had died several years ago, but her daughter sold traditional medicines sans divinations or anything.


the current lady witchdoctor (on the far right) and her family

the awesome feathery witch doctory hat

A collection of gourds containing oil based medicines.  These can be taken home on paper and brewed into teas.  Note the disgustingness of the feet in the picture.


Having gotten so far, we decided we should actually ask what medicines are available.  There are medicines to heal stomach aches, headaches, malaria ndegendege*, having too many children, having not enough children, and generally everything except HIV/AIDS.  I asked for a love potion, just, you know, why not, but apparently it takes some time to prepare those, so one of my sitemates bought a magical root for stomachaches and some oil based goo to increase his fertility that he is now having second thoughts about taking.


*childhood seizures.   Ndege means bird or airplane, and the idea is a child is looking up at a bird as the eyes roll up.  Commonly thought to be just a form of malaria, but this lady insisted it is different.


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